ROSES GENERAL CARE

Summary

• Select a sunny aspect well clear of existing trees and shrubs
• Prepare the garden bed in well drained soil
• Do not use fertiliser when planting
• Do not let the roots dry out at anytime after opening your rose package
• Plant with all roots going downwards & outwards
• Water in well after planting.
• Re-prune the branches to a good growth eye if necessary.

The enclosed bare-root roses have been packed with care and should arrive to you in good condition. All the roses sold by Garden Express are bud grafted. They are supplied as bare root plants when dormant during the winter months. After roses are dug the roots are washed free of soil prior to packing and transport. Bare root roses travel extremely well and should remain fresh in transit for up to two weeks.

When your plants arrive:

Step 1. Undo the parcel carefully and soak the roots in water overnight.
Step 2. Plant the following day (as per planting instructions & diagram), do not let roots dry out.
Step 3. If the plants arrive in advance of your desired planting time they should be heeled-in*.
*To keep bare rooted roses longer than 3 days they should be “heeled-in”. Select an open space in the garden, dig one large hole and plant all your bundled roses in it and firm down soil. Water in well. They will keep for several weeks if kept watered.
*Note: It is important not to let the roots dry out at any stage of planting.

Choosing the right position – All roses require an open, sunny and well drained position. At least 5 hours sun per day is required, preferably more. Although shaded areas will allow roses to do well, the quantity of flowers will reduce with the percentage of shade. Shaded parts of the garden are more liable to attacks from fungus diseases as the plants remain wet for too long after rains or dewy nights. Protection from wind is essential for good blooms but remember to allow for movement of air. Avoid planting too close to established shrubs and trees.

Soil preparation Ideal soils are not available to everyone, but roses are very adaptable with some help from the gardener. Best soils are medium to heavy loam to about 35cm minimum depth, over a good clay subsoil. However roses can be grown successfully in many soil types. The important thing to remember is that light sandy soils retain less moisture and nutrients. Light sandy soils require copious quantities of compost and animal manures, as well as more frequent watering. Mulching is advisable with all soil types as it eliminates many problems, such as less watering and weeding and also retains better average soil temperature. Some mulches to use: Pea straw, lucerne, tan or pine bark, leaf mould, peat moss, and horse or cow manure.

DO NOT – use fowl manure or other quick soluble fertilisers at planting time.
DO NOT – replant into old soil where roses have been removed. Renew with fresh soil.
DO NOT – use weedicides or pre-emergence weedicides. (Roundup™ type weed killers can be used to clean an area prior to planting).

Sucker Growth – Most rose plants are budded onto “root-stocks”.  Occasionally a shoot from the root stock grows and is known as a “sucker”.  It will come from below the graft and the foliage will look distinctly different. This growth must be removed immediately, as it grows quite vigorously  and will completely take over the plant. To remove sucker growth, first find where it originates.  This may be on the main stem or from a root below ground. Take a sharp knife and remove the growth completely.  Do not use secatures and do not cut off growth at ground level. DO NOT confuse water shoots with suckers.  Water shoots ALWAYS come above the graft.

Dead heading – Regularly removing old flowers (dead heading) will encourage the production of more flowers throughout all of the warmer months.

How to plant – The ideal time for planting bare root roses in Australia is June and July. Later planting is possible, depending upon climate, but generous watering will be necessary until the plants have full foliage. The proposed rose bed should have been dug over many times prior to planting and brought to a good tilth, ready for the plants. A thorough cultivation at the time of planting is a bare minimum. Dig a hole large enough to take the roots, which should be placed down and outwards over a small mound at the bottom of the hole. A hole approximately 30cm wide by 25cm deep should be sufficient. Cover with soil and firm down moderately. Water in well. The bud graft or bud union should remain approximately 5cm above soil level. Do not use fertilisers at planting time, as this may burn the roots. However, the addition of well rotted animal manure and a small amount of blood and bone well dug in is beneficial.

The following can be used as a guide for spacing your plants:

Hybrid Tea Bush – Average 1 – 1.3 metre apart
Floribunda Bush – Average 0.6 – 1 metre apart
Ground Covers – Average 1 metre apart

In most circumstances the graft or bud union of all bush roses should remain approximately 5cm above soil level.
Water in well and firm moderately.

Twin Coloured Roses – Twin color roses need specific care. In order for these roses to reach their full potential, it is important that the more vigorous color is managed to allow the other color to grow and flourish.  As these plants are growing, please ensure equal growth from both colours by cutting back the white flowering stems a little harder than the other colour rose. This will ensure that the more vigorous color will not overtake and crowd out the second colour of these lovely plants.

Pests and diseases – With most diseases of roses, prevention is the best cure.  Most diseases can be prevented but not always cured. While it would be desirable to grow roses without spraying, they do need treating to retain good health and vitality and consequently better quality flowers. Fungus diseases such as black spot and mildew are more prevalent in the humid areas of Australia.

The following suggestions are what we have found to be most satisfactory.

Black Spot – Probably the most troublesome disease because if left unattended the plant will become defoliated and consequently lose vigour and become debilitated. It is important to remember that Black Spot cannot be cured, so a preventive spraying program is necessary. Immediately after Winter pruning spray the roses and surrounding ground with Bordeaux or Lime Sulphur, this helps eradicate any fungus spores left on the pruned plant. In early spring, when good growth commences, start spraying thoroughly every 10 days. The following fungacide sprays are considered effective: Triforine (Saprol), Mancozeb, Dithane M45, Baycor, Systhane. A good organic control for fungal infections is 1 part full cream milk to 10 parts water and sprayed onto foliage every 7 to 14 days.

Mildew – Mainly effects the young growth and is usually at its worst in sub-tropical areas where night air is cool and dews are prevalent.  Spray every 10 days or when necessary with Nimrod, Triforine (Saprol), or Rubigan. For both Black Spot and Powdery Mildew avoid watering roses overhead in the late afternoon or evening, as night dampness is conducive to the spread of fungus diseases.

Rust – Appears as rust coloured spots or swellings on the underside of leaves and occasionally on the stems.  Not very common, but if noticed spray the undersides of leaves with Rubigan, Triforine, or Zineb.

Insects – Aphids, two spotted mite (Red spider mite) and other sucking insects can be controlled with the following: Rogor, Metasystox, Mavrik, Torgue.  These are all systemic sprays, rotate usage to avoid insects becoming partly immune.
Caterpillars & Chewing Pests- Can be eradicated using Cabaryl Septene) or Bugmaster (Sevin).

IMPORTANT NOTE:  All the above sprays should be used strictly in accordance with directions on labels and compatibility investigated if using more than one at a time. Use protective clothing for safety and do not spray when temperature is above 25C. Always store chemicals well out of reach of children.