DAFFODIL ICE KING
Ice king has pretty all-over creamy yellow flowers with tightly ruffled centres. Daffodils prefer a full sun to part shade position in well drained soil. Easy to grow, they are ideal for pots and containers or leave in the ground year after year and the bulbs will multiply. Mid season flowering.
Supplied as dormant bulbs.
- Frost tolerant once established
- Suitable for areas with full sun
- Suitable for areas with part shade
- Ideal in pots or containers
- Suitable to cut for vases
- Plant 12cm apart
- Grows to 30-40cm high
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Common Name: DAFFODILS
Botanical Name: Narcissus
Family Name: Amaryllidaceae
Plant Type: Bulb
Size: 25-40cm H x 15cm W
Planting Time: Autumn
Planting Width: 15cm
Planting Depth: 12cm
Flowering: Late Winter to early Spring
Positioning: Full sun with some protection from wind
General Information: Suitable for Mediterranean and temperate/dry climates. Daffodils will generally only flower from round mature bulbs. If you plant them too shallow they are prone to ‘spilt up’ into side bulbs too readily to reach maturity. Deeper planted bulbs appear to stay healthier, and split less frequently, thus producing more flowers for many years.
Watering: After planting the daffodils give them a thorough watering, but do not water again until the foliage starts to appear. Natural rainfall should be sufficient. Keep bulbs moist during dry spells in autumn and late spring. They do need water during their growth and flowering. Can tolerate frosts.
Fertilising: After flowering has finished, apply light amount of blood and bone or complete plant food. If you have poor soil, sprinkle an all-purpose feed after flowering.
Soil: Well drained soil. Lifting & Storage: If the daffodils are planted in soil with good drainage, the bulbs may be left in the ground and divided every 3 years. If you prefer to dig them up, spent flowers should be removed and foliage allowed to die off naturally. Once the daffodils leaves have died right down, they can be lifted and stored in a cool, dry, airy place.
Pests: Use a little snail bait regularly during growing period.
Tips: They look beautiful mass planted in the garden. Daffodils can range in colours from yellow, white and pink. Smaller varieties need not be planted as deep. In warm climates plant all varieties slightly deeper than recommended.
Different varieties flower at different times so mixed Daffodils flower over a longer period. Can be grown in pots, window boxes.
DAFFODIL QUESIONS AND ANSWERS
Do you have to lift the bulbs every year?
It is not necessary to lift daffodils every year, probably every three years is enough. The best guide is that if a clump is not flowering very well, that is if flowers are becoming fewer and fewer, this means that the clump has become too crowded. You should definitely lift and divide them when they are dormant, usually at the end of summer. Lifting and splitting these bulbs up so they get a new lease of life.
How do you store bulbs?
When you lift daffodil bulbs put them into an open mesh bag like an onion or orange bag and hang in a cool airy spot in the garage or garden shed. Keep them there until March which is the time to plant them in the garden.
Is it really necessary to wait until the leaves have died down before you lift the bulbs?
It is important to wait until the leaves wither before you do anything with the bulbs. After a bulb has put out its flowers it will have shrunk to a tiny size, so if it is to flower next season it will need to be replenished with food in the form of starch. This is the purpose of the leaves, making food to build up the bulb to a decent flowering size. If you cut or mow down the leaves too early the bulb will not have grown enough. Six to eight weeks after flowering has finished you can certainly cut off the withering leaves.
Why didn’t my Daffodils flower?
The two main reasons why Daffodils don’t flower:
- They may be growing in too much shade, they prefer quite a bit of sunlight.
- They may have been planted too shallow, this causes splitting of the bulbs, which are then not big enough to flower, but will still produce leaves.
- The bulb may have been too hot in pots left in the summer sun.
What about feeding bulbs?
To build up a healthy bulb for flowering next season it is a good idea to spread around a well balanced fertiliser. Use a complete fertiliser, not one that contains only nitrogen as this will lead to all leaf growth. A balanced fertiliser such as
one formulated for bulbs or an azalea or camellia food will be fine. The best time to feed is just as the flowering is finishing and the leaves are dying off.